Bezel settings are indigenous ring setting styles made of other colored gemstones instead of diamonds we see today. The start of the tradition of cutting diamonds for brilliance put bezel-set rings into the limelight.
In a bezel setting, the center stone is trapped inside the band with a metal rim around the diamond’s girdle, flushing the top of the jewel to the metal band. Bezel-set rings come in many colors. The most common are white gold, yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum.
Other colors aren’t only uncommon, but they’re also rare. In men’s wedding rings, bezel settings are in titanium, tungsten, or stainless steel. These provide an avenue for the gems to be in alternate metals sets. There isn’t much flexibility in the styles available for bezel engagement rings, but jewelers can create unique settings like the freeform rings.
Bezel Settings: Advantages and Disadvantages
Types of Bezel Settings
There are two main types of Bezel settings, the full and the partial bezel settings. Let’s take a look at them one after the other.
Full Bezel Setting
In the Full bezel setting, the metal borders the entire center gemstone or diamond and covers the gemstone from all angles. This setting protects the edges of the stone, thereby reducing the risk of damages.
However, this setting also limits the gem’s exposure, making it appear smaller than its actual size. It’s practically impossible to see the side view or light reflection from the sides in a Full bezel setting. This setting affects the radiance and size of the diamond as it only sparkles upwards, with a significant part of it covered.
Partial Bezel Settings
This setting, contrary to the Full bezel setting, encircles part of the gemstone, providing more visibility and making the stone appear larger than one in a Full bezel setting. Also, the exposure of a significant part of the gem makes it easier for light to reflect better on it.
This exposure also gives the diamond a more visible reflection. However, because the gemstone is only partially covered, gems with a partial bezel setting also have a higher risk of damage.
Advantages of Bezel Settings
It holds and protects the diamond.
When you rock a ring with the bezel setting, the possibility of the ring coming off will be near zero, relieving you of related worries. Bezel settings guarantee extra protection over your gemstone.
In cases of significant impacts, the diamond will be less prone to chipping. However, there is an exception for a diamond with sharp edges, like pear cuts, princess cuts, and the Marquise cuts, as these forms of diamond are more prone to chipping. The bezel setting is best for people who use their rings actively and subject them to the roughest conditions.
It doesn’t damage your clothing.
Unlike some other diamond settings, bezel settings will not snag your dresses or your belongings. Even if you work in industries where you have to handle clothes frequently, you can always wear a bezel set ring without snagging your work equipment or catching your hair.
The bezel setting is known for its ability to conceal flaws or imperfections that would’ve been visible in other diamonds settings. Most of the minute flaws on the side of a gemstone — like a chip or cut will be invisible after a bezel setting. However, significant flaws that impact the center of the stone will remain visible.
Disadvantages of Bezel Settings
Reduces sparkle and minimize the size
One of the downsides to the bezel setting is that it minimizes the apparent size of the diamonds and reduces their reflection. For instance, the full bezel setting covers most of the diamond’s surface, leaving only the center part of the gemstone as the only visible part
. This underexposure restricts the brilliance of the diamond. But, factors like the band’s width and thickness play a crucial role in the gemstone size that everyone sees.
Another limitation to bezel settings is the extremely high cost. Creating a bezel setting requires high precision, expertise, and time. Also, a bezel setting must be created to the unique size and make of the stone.
Jewelers sometimes shy away from creating bezel settings due to the high cost and complex customization involved in creating the setting for the specific gemstone. The uniqueness of the bezel setting makes it significantly more expensive than some other gemstone settings like the prong.
What’s the proper diamond shape for a bezel setting?
There is no set rule that diamond bezel shaping should follow. Gemstones of any shape, size, or type can work for a bezel setting. However, most of the stones used for bezel settings are round.
Round gemstones are the most popular choice for jewelry, but you can use any shape you choose for your bezel setting.
How to choose the best bezel setting
Choosing a setting that suits you isn’t rocket science. It is a simple process if you know how to go about it. The most crucial step of the whole process is carefully selecting the best jeweler or store that offers the best bezel-set rings at the most affordable price. Many online stores offer bezel-set rings that won’t cut seriously into your wallet.
The simple build of the bezel setting makes it one of the best gemstone settings from a maintenance standpoint. The absence of prongs capable of accumulating dirt or dust under the gemstone is an added advantage.
It prevents the stone from gathering dirt, making for an effortless cleaning process. A little regular light wash with warm water, soap, and a soft rag will do the magic.
So there’s almost everything you’ll ever need to know about the bezel setting. The bezel is one of the best you’ll find out there, especially for an engagement ring, except for its high cost. So go to that jeweler, get your rings cut in the bezel setting, and you’ll love this fascinating addition to your jewelry collection.